"The determining factors of summer hair are 'Where am I going to lunch?' and 'How much time do I have?' It's about being lighthearted and spontaneous," states John Sahag, owner of The John Sahag Workshop in New York City.

Sahag's quote captures the essence of the season — the weather's warm, you're outside more, and you're less interested in a complicated coif. Top stylists from around the country anticipate hair with lots of movement and freedom in a sexy, Girl Power kind of way for Summer 2001. Their two most consistent bits of advice: Follow your hair's natural texture and forego a formal part. By now, you've gone for your summer haircut here's how the pros are styling each look.

Curls
No one is forcing curls into stick-straight styles this summer. "Free-flowing, separated waves are in," notes Paul Labrecque, owner of his own Manhattan salon. "Apply a little finishing cream to damp hair and wind locks around your fingers to create the loose, relaxed curls." Cheryl Marks, Pantene's celebrity stylist, suggests braiding damp hair for daytime, which will create those soft waves for a sexy nighttime look when the braids come out. Or use a wide Alice in Wonderland headband to pull hair off the face. "Allow your hair to dry naturally in this position for a quick, cool style," advises Ruth Roche, global artistic director for Design at Redken. For the beach, Ouidad, owner of the eponymous New York salon, suggests coating your hair with deep conditioner and letting the sun do the rest. At the end of the day, just rinse, and your curls will be soft and frizz-free.

Long Locks
"For sleek, accessorized styles, consider simple ponytail wraps and skinny headbands," advises Virginie Bayod, senior stylist at Frédéric Fekkai. "These tools make long hair look elegant without spending lots of time primping." According to Nathaniel Hawkins, of Garren New York, and Oscar Bond, owner of his own SoHo salon, there's a big trend influencing hair texture and length: Charlie's Angels. "We've moved from layers in the back of the head to around the face, which allows a lot of swing to the hair that's sexy and glamorous," notes Hawkins. "Last year, styles were flat and shiny, but this year, we're seeing lots of texture. These Charlie's Angels-inspired coifs are all about Girl Power — strong, not submissive looks," observes Bond.

Short Cuts
Short cuts have shifted from sleek to textured. Ruth Roche predicts, "People will still use gel to pull hair away from the face, but the look is more casual, not slicked back. And tight cornrows will give way to bigger, looser, fuller twists that blend the front and back of the cut. This will also hold true for longer styles." Paul Labrecque anticipates a run on styling creams to give hair texture. His second prediction: Subtle accessories adorned with small, sparkling shells will replace last year's bugs and butterflies.

Layered Looks
"Because layered styles allow the hair to follow its natural shape, fewer clips and barrettes will be used to hold pieces in place," notes Garren's Nathaniel Hawkins. "The cuts and hair texture are the focus, not the accessories. The one exception is a scarf or wrap to protect the hair from the wind in a convertible, on a motorcycle or on a boat — it will ravage the ends of your hair if you don't conceal them." For a touch of Hollywood glamour, Oscar Bond recommends using a few rollers at the top of the head to create that loose, free-flowing movement, similar to Cameron Diaz's hairstyle at the Oscars. As for parts, none of the stylists advise anything too structured for layered cuts — welcome news to those of us trying to conceal dark roots!

African-American Advice
Establishing healthy hair seems to be stylists' initial advice to women with African-American or ethnic hair. Paul Labrecque notes that styles are becoming more natural, requiring less pulling and straightening. Ruth Roche suggests creamy products (such as Redken's Active Express Speed) to give hair some weight when it's blown dry. "If you're going natural, a hydrating and conditioning regime will keep your mane looking its best. For shorter cuts, you'll need silicone and wax-based stylers, which provide control, moldability and shine."